Wanderful Journeys │ Personalized Adventures for Every Travel Style

View Original

Magical Kotor: Visiting the Adriatic's Rising Star

For me, experiencing Kotor was initially my main motivation for visiting Montenegro. Each time I saw a picture of the fortified city and surroundings, my heart seemed to skip a beat. I could imagine the feeling of tranquility while gazing over the town's orange ceramic roofs and onto the transcendent bay. I could envision myself getting lost wandering through the winding, cobblestone streets. Something was drawing me to this medieval town, and I just had to visit.

Although not a mainstream European tourist destination just yet, Kotor may be the most famous destination in Montenegro. Located deep in the corner of Boka Bay, about 2 hours south of Dubrovnik, the settlement of Kotor has existed for over 2,000 years, but it wasn't until recently that the area's popularity blossomed. The latest burst in tourist growth can mainly be attributed to the popularity of Kotor as a cruise ship port - a blessing and curse for the city.

Kotor's charm revolves around a maze of narrow alleyways throughout the small fortified town that is wedged between the Bay of Kotor, the Scurda River and the commanding Lovćen and Orjen mountains. This tightly secured position, perfect for protection, was just not built for masses of people. Over-tourism can therefore be an unfortunate byproduct at times during high season (May-September) when cruises are in port. But trust me, that should not stop you from visiting this enchanting town.

Despite increasing visitor numbers, there is still something in the air in Kotor that will give you a sense of rejuvenation and excitement as you explore its historic streets. Plus, experiencing Kotor is so much more than just the Old Town. Its location has the added benefit of making Kotor the perfect base for soaking in Boka Bay or for day trips throughout southern Montenegro - so you can always escape out of Old Town for the day if a large ship is at port! (see 2019 cruise ship schedule)

Bottom line - if you have any interest in visiting Kotor's picturesque sites, I would raise Montenegro on your travel priority list ASAP to enjoy the quaintness of Kotor before the secret is fully out, and more crowds come flooding in!

Top Kotor Activities

Climbing Kotor's City Walls

The iconic fortifications towering above the streets of Kotor caught my eye as soon as I approached Old Town for the first time. Glowing as a protective ring in the night, and camouflaging into the steep surrounding slopes during the day, Kotor's walls are truly a spectacular man-made feat. The fortifications have protected the important trading town for centuries, with the first walls on St. John's Hill dating back to the 9th century. A breathtaking example of how nature and man can intersect harmoniously, the fortifications are best appreciated by climbing to the top. My sunrise hike up to St. John's Fortress, also known as San Giovanni by locals, was truly a highlight of my time in Kotor - a ‘must do’ activity for anyone visiting Old Town.

The hike to the top of the walls is a steep 1,200 meter (~4,000 ft) ascent made by going up over 1,350 steps. The trail to the fortress begins at one of two entry points, one by the North River Gate, and the other behind Trg od Salate in the center of town. The climb took me about an hour to reach the top, which included plenty of stops to soak in the stunning views of Kotor and the entire Boka Bay. I may have been a bit out of breathe on the way up all those stairs, but the panoramic views I was rewarded from the climb made the hike an unforgettable trek.

Wandering through Old Town

The streets of Old Town Kotor are jammed pack with hidden treasures at every turn. With so many authentic buildings still perfectly preserved, it is no wonder this medieval town holds the high distinction of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To me, the best way to explore the Old Town, is just to wander aimlessly through the twist and turns of the narrow cobblestone lanes. With more than a dozen churches, numerous palaces, and many monuments, I often didn’t even realize the special gems your passing, but that is part of Kotor's charm.

Kotor's history as a trading and seafaring town, along with its multiple rulers over the century, has led to a mix of diverse architecture throughout the town influenced by everything from the Romans, Byzentines, Venetians, Baroque and Gothic styles, to name a few. The variation of styles was a delight to wander through, keeping me alert and intrigued turn after turn. Plus, I was always on the lookout for some of the hundred of infamous cats that call the Old Town home!

As I warned, in high season Kotor can become a bit over-crowded during the day with an influx of day-trippers, but early mornings and evenings are perfect for taking in the wonders of Old Town. Overall though, there is no wrong way to take in the charming Old Town, so just enjoy!

Enjoying the Bay of Kotor

Escape the sometimes crowded feel of Old Town and take in the glorious fresh air by exploring the Bay of Kotor further. Sun lovers can take refuge at Kotor Beach with tanning and swimming options. I loved taking long walks along the bay’s promenade, heading north towards the town of Dobrota. I highly recommend stopping for a relaxing meal or drinks at one of the various water-side restaurants - no better way to enjoy the views all around. At the marina you can find many choices for different boat tours or other watersport options if you are interested in enjoying the bay from the water itself. However you choose to explore, remember Kotor is so much more than just Old Town!

Hiking the "Ladder of Kotor"

For more active spirits, the winding 70+ switchbacks of the old military road, dubbed "Ladder of Kotor" are a tempting off-the-beaten-path pursuit. The zig-zagging trail, carved up to the top of Krstac Pass, once served as the connection between Kotor and the then royal capital Cetinje, but today acts as a day-hiker's dream filled with few fellow tourists and endless views. The trail can be completed many different ways: by hiking round trip, one-way, joining up with the city wall trail, with a guided tour, etc. No matter which way you embark, it will undoubtedly be a hike to remember.

Exploring More of Montenegro

Kotor's location and ease of access makes it the perfect base for visiting many of the other top sites throughout Montenegro. From beaches, culture, history, religion and nature - anything you could possibly be interested in is within your reach!

The lovely town of Perast, 20 minutes north in the Bay of Boka, is a perfect half day trip, while south on the Adriatic coast popular Budva and Sveti Stefan are just over 30 minutes away. Both can easily be reached with public transportation options, or private transfers, and should not be missed while you are already in the area!

Read more about taking a day trip to Perast from Kotor.

Perast

Up in the mountains, via the epically scenic serpentine road, you can enjoy the classic Kotor Bay views, without having to hike. The nearby village of Njeguši is home to Monenegro's oldest restaurant famed for delicious smoked prosciutto and cheese (for only a few euros!). Njegoš Mausoleum in Lovćen National Park is just over an hour’s drive from Kotor, which to me was a great excursion from the town to get both incredible mountain views and more background on Montenegrin history.

Lovćen National Park

Even places like Centije, Skadar National Park, and Ostrog Monastery are easily within reach for a day trip from Kotor. If you are short with time and don't have a car (like I was…), or don't want to splurge on a private tour for the day, 360 Monte's Great Montenegro Tour is a fantastic option to get the best taste of all that Montenegro has to offer from Kotor. I absolutely loved the tour as I was able to cram in as many sites around Montenegro as possible with my limited time, while also getting great background information from the guides and met a lot of fun fellow travelers from around the world.

Centije Monastery

Lake Skadar

Getting to Kotor

By Plane

Tivat Airport (TIV) is located a mere 8km, a 10 minute drive, from Kotor. Routes to Tivat are mainly available during summer months, with an increasing number of arrival options recently from destinations throughout Europe and Russia. A taxi to Old Town from the airport should only cost around €10, but make sure to negotiate ahead of beginning the ride as many drives are known to try to scam tourists with higher prices.

Montenegro's main airport in Podgorica (TGD), has also been expanding flight routes recently, with many new affordable flight options to destinations in Europe. The airport is ~90km, an hour and a half drive, from Kotor. Airport taxis price the trip at €70, but some private transfer services can offer lower rates if booked in advance. Sadly there is no public transportation to Podgorica's main bus station, so you will have to take a taxi to the station (€10, 15 minutes), and then hop on a bus to Kotor (€6 plus €1 for luggage, 2 hours) if you are looking for a cheaper way to arrive.

Croatia's Dubrovnik Airport (DBV) is also a good, close alternative place to fly into if you are looking to visit Kotor. The airport is located only an hour and a half drive from Kotor - note, you will have to go through customs again to enter Montenegro from Croatia. If you are looking to take public transportation from Dubrovnik Airport, unfortunately you will have to first go the opposite way of Kotor to Dubrovnik's main bus station (40kn, ~30 minutes), and from there catch the bus to Kotor (€15-18, 2.5 hours).

By Bus

Kotor's main bus station is an easy 5-10 minute walk from outside Old Town, and connects Kotor both domestically and internationally. Kotor has multiple buses a day to coastal neighbors such as Budva (€2-3, 40 minutes), Bar (€6, 2 hours), and Herceg Novi (€3, 1 hour), plus inland spots including Podgorica (€6, 2 hours), Niksic (€6-8, 3-4 hours), and Žabljak (€15, 4 hours). Buses from Croatia (Dubrovnik - €15-18, 2.5 hours; Split - €34, 8 hours) , Bosnia and Herzegovina (Mostar - €23-34, 6-9 hours; Sarajevo - €26, 8-11 hours), Serbia (Belgrade - €23-28, 11-12 hours), and Albania (Shkoder - €15, 4 hours; Tirana - €25, 6 hours) make Kotor easily accessible from much of the Balkans.

*For more bus route information, check out Balkan Viator or BusTicket4.me (warning: be sure to double check all times once on the ground traveling, as the timetables are not always up to date for all routes - but best resources available in the Balkans!) Tickets are not needed to be bought in advance and can be bought directly on the bus or in the bus station depending on your starting location.

By Car

Renting a car is rather affordable in Montenegro and neighboring Balkan countries. Roads are well paved and easily navigable, and many accommodations assist with parking needs. Having a car makes exploring the Bay and rest of Montenegro easy to do on your own time, but definitely is not necessary. Note - Old Town Kotor is pedestrian only, so you will have to park outside of the main town.

By Boat

Major cruise liners are more and more adding Kotor to their list of top ports each year. If you cruises aren't your thing, you can hire taxi boats, or charter a boat from any of the smaller Boka Bay towns, or coastal cities like Budva, to enjoy a scenic welcome to Kotor before exploring the town on foot.

Where to Stay in Kotor

The Old Town of Kotor is home to accommodation options for any budget. Luxury boutique hotels, small B&Bs, guesthouses, hostels and Airbnbs are spread throughout the small town. Since Old Town is surprisingly flat and condensed, no location is really a bad one when situated inside the city walls.

The 'backpacker classic' on the Balkan route is Hostel Old Town Kotor, known for a more festive environment. If you are looking for a quieter feel, Antika Guesthouse across the street offers the same affordability, comfort and friendliness, without the noise.

Outside of Old Town, there are a plethora of affordable and luxury lodging options, plus hundreds of Airbnb options throughout Boka Bay, ideal if you are looking for a longer term stay in the area or a family looking to rent an apartment with more space. These are probably best for those with a rental car, but some closer to Kotor can be good options for people looking to be outside the sometimes touristy Old Town.

If you are looking for top luxury, Regent Porto Montenegro, closer to Tivat, is an acclaimed choice. Plus if you contact Wanderful Journeys to book, we are able to secure free added amenities for you and your guests during your stay!

How Much Time Do I Need?

Due to the small size of Old Town, some people choose to only visit Kotor for a day as a day-trip from Dubrovnik, or cruise stop. To me, this is a mistake. Yes, you can technically see all of Old Town in this time, but much of the charm and ambience of Kotor comes at night/early morning when the streets aren't crowded and you can just wander aimlessly about. Obviously I understand time constraints can plague any itinerary, but I highly recommend using Kotor as a base for the surrounding region and spending at least 2, if not more days there.

This past summer I spent 3 nights and 3 full days in and around Kotor, and I could definitely envision myself relaxing and exploring the area more if time had allowed.

Want help planning a visit to Kotor? Contact Wanderful Journeys today to start planning your perfect Kotor getaway! We can help with itinerary design, hotel and activity bookings, transportation - whatever you need!

Have you been to Kotor? We want to hear from you! What were your thoughts? Any other recommendations we missed? Tell us in the comments!

PIN IT


See this gallery in the original post