Climbing Old Town's City Walls: A Must-Do For Any Kotor Visit
No trip to Kotor can be complete without a climb up the Old Town's infamous city walls.
Reaching a height of 280 meters above sea level (~918 feet), the ancient walls surrounding Kotor have served as an impenetrable shield for centuries. The first walls on St. John's Hill date back to the 9th century when Kotor was under Byzantine rule. Through the centuries, work to increase the protectiveness of the wall was constantly in place, with the 3-mile fortified loop completed in the 14th century, and endless renovations and additions were continually made until the 19th century.
Today, the walls remain standing strong - a true testament to the hard work and structural brilliance of the people of Kotor. Despite natural disasters, battles, rotating rulers and centuries of erosion, Kotor's city walls survive impressively intact. Sadly some of the structures within the walls are in ruins from years of desertedness, but overall the sense of grandeur remains inescapable.
At night, the walls are illuminated, showcasing the splendid facade beaming above Old Town. During the day, the walls blend in with the grey mountain rocks behind it, concealing the ramparts as part of the steep slopes. Regardless of when you see them, the walls are truly a breathtaking example of how nature and man can intersect harmoniously - and the best way to fully appreciate this beauty is by climbing to the top.
The Climb
The hike to the top of the walls is a steep 1,200 meter (~4,000 ft) ascent made by going up, and up, and up over 1,350 steps. This brings you to St. John's Fortress, also known as San Giovanni by locals, where you can soak in one of the best views of Old Town Kotor and the Bay of Boka.
When to Hike: The absolute best time to hike is early morning around sunrise. The lighting is not only phenomenal, but there won't be many people on the path, it won't be too hot, and you won't have to pay the entrance fee. Usually I love a good sunset hike, but Mount Vrmac across the bay blocks the actual setting sun views, so I was told by multiple locals that sunrise was better photographically for views of the bay - and based on my experience, I would have to agree!
Length and Difficulty: It took me about an hour to reach the top, which is around the average time for most people. This included plenty of stops for taking pictures and enjoying the views. Although you may be a bit out of breath when you get to the top, people of almost any athletic condition can attempt the hike, just go slow and steady! Roundtrip you should allocate around 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on how much time you want to explore the fortress or just bask in the views!
Entrance Fees: From May to September, an €8 entrance fee is in effect from 8am to 8pm. In July 2018, new turnstiles were installed at entrances to ensure no dodging the fee, however the path is technically open 24 hours, so as mentioned, if you decide to go for a sunrise hike, you do not need to pay the entrance amount. The path can be very steep and slippery at points, so I would advise against attempting the hike at night.
The Route: There are two entry points to begin the hike up, one by the North River Gate, and the other behind Trg od Salate in the center of town. Both eventually intersect, so just begin at whichever is located closer to you! For me that was the more southern entrance.
Within five minutes of starting, I emerged above the trees with my first grand view of Old Town Kotor. A sea of orange ceramic tiled roofs spread to the still bay waters, with dramatic soaring mountains protruding in the background - a foreshadow of unforgettable views to come.
Continuing on, the pebbled path wound uphill for about 10 more minutes of walking, until reaching the Church of Our Lady of Remedy. The church dates back to 1518, and naturally provides more stunning views.
Onward up the steep slopes of St. John Mountain, the notorious steps begin, lining switchbacks carved into the mountain. The struggle to breathe can get a bit real here, but the views keep getting better and better.
Only about another 10 minutes later is an old fort with another epic lookout, a fantastic place to rest for a moment. I even made a new friend while trying to catch my breath here!
After 20 minutes of going up more increasingly steeper rocky steps, I rejoiced to finally reach the fortress itself! It may be hollowed out and in ruins, but its impressiveness is overreaching when you begin to imagine trying to make the climb to build the structure!
From the top, breathtaking panoramic views of the entire Bay await. Even though I was tired from the steps, nothing could take away from the incredible feeling I had taking in the stunning views, and appreciating the intricate fortifications around me. What an absolute special place.
Luckily for my legs, going back down was a breeze with constant gorgeous bay views and gravity pushing me back down to town exponentially quicker than it took to tread uphill, thus completing the wonderful trek.
Some Wanderful Advice:
Bring plenty of water! Especially if hiking during the day in summer - it can get HOT.
Wear sturdy shoes! You may see some people on the path wearing sandals or heels, which if you ask me…is absolutely MAD. Gym shoes / trainers are ideal, but at a minimum wear shoes with some sort of support. It can be very slippery on the steps and rocks, you do not want to be stuck with a rolled ankle.
Remember sun protection! Take a hat and wear sunscreen, especially in summer, the sun will be beating down on you most of the day.
1,350 steps not enough for you? If you are looking for a more active hike in Kotor, consider climbing the "Ladder of Kotor" - a 4 mile hike up an old military road, comprising of over 70 switchbacks rising towards Krstac Pass from which you can stare all the way out to the Adriatic Sea. You can connect to the trail through a window in the wall near St. John's fortress, making it a great addition to any city wall exploration.
Have you hiked Kotor's City Walls? We would love to hear about your experiences! Tell us in the comments!
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