An Adventurer's Wonderland: Visiting Durmitor National Park
The stunning coast of Montenegro is enough to make you wonder how Montenegro continues to remain under the radar as a tourist destination - but the even less visited Durmitor National Park will make you feel as if you have stumbled upon a true hidden gem and haven for adventures.
I embarked to Montenegro last summer dreaming of the idyllic Kotor Bay views, but left in absolute awe of Durmitor National Park. Without the mass tourist crowds, a few days in the park's mountains can rejuvenate your soul. But, you don't have to be an outdoorsy person to fall in love with Durmitor National Park. The panoramic views, dramatic landscape and cute mountain villages in themselves were enough to immediately win me over.
Durmitor is filled with activities for all ages and fitness levels all year long, making it the perfect destination for families, solo travelers, couples, friends, adventurers, or anyone just looking to disconnect in nature for a few days. Personally, I cannot wait to go back!
About Durmitor National Park
The largest national park in Montenegro, Durmitor is located in Northern Montenegro near the border of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The iconic limestone massif is part of the Dinaric Alps and home to 48 peaks over 2,000 meters high (6,500+ ft), plus 18 glacier lakes, numerous canyons, and Europe's deepest gorge - contributing to its astounding scenery.
The park's unique habitat influenced by both alpine and Mediterranean climates, proudly bears over 1,300 species of plants, many unique to the area, and is home to 130 types of birds. In 1980 the park was enlisted on the UNESCO World Natural and Cultural Heritage list to celebrate its beauty, geological wonder and biological diversity.
Entrance to the park itself is €3 per person, with special 3 day passes available for €6. Children under 7 have free admission.
The town of Žabljak is the unofficial capital of the park and is the perfect base for all things Durmitor. Located at 1,450 meters (4,760 ft) above sea level, Žabljak is the highest town in the Balkans and best known by locals as a winter ski resort. In the summer though, Žabljak is a quiet, yet bustling, enchanting center for adventure.
How to Get There
Žabljak and the surrounding park is only accessible via road, but Montenegro's modern road system and bus network make it easy to reach.
By Car
If you are looking for a good roadtrip, renting a car in Montenegro is rather affordable and will give you the freedom to explore the region on your own time. The roads throughout Durmitor are easily navigable and parking is readily available.
If you are looking for more convenience without needing to rent a car, private transfers are relatively affordable as well, with private cars ranging from €70-80 from Kotor and Podgorica.
By Bus
For the budget traveler, many easy and affordable bus routes connect Žabljak to Montenegrin towns and neighboring countries. Locally, buses leave a few times a day from Kotor/Budva (4-5 hours, €15), Podgorica (2.5 hours, €8) and Nikšić (1.5 hours, €5-6). If no direct service is available, take a bus to the larger Nikšić and transfer there for Žabljak - for which multiple routes are available throughout the day. From Belgrade there are two direct buses (€21) that leave each day for the ~7-8 hour journey. One leaves in the morning, and the other is an overnight bus that will drop you off in town at 7am, just in time for a full days worth of activities around the region. Buses from Sarajevo or Dubrovnik also exist but require a transfer in Nikšić.
*For more transport options, check out Balkan Viator or BusTicket4.me (warning: be sure to double check all times once on the ground traveling, as the timetables are not always up to date for all routes - but best resources available in the Balkans!) Tickets are not needed to be bought in advance and can be bought directly on the bus or in the bus station depending on your starting location.
Getting Around
Around town, everything is walkable in Žabljak, including access to the National Park and multiple trails. Many activities, such as rafting and canyoning, provide their own shuttle services, while any accommodation can easily call private taxis or arrange group transportation for you if needed - so a rental car is in no way a must-have to visit the area.
What to Do
Hike! Hike! Hike! Ok, I said you don't have to be an outdoorsy person to love Durmitor...but with so many incredible hikes to choose from - it definitely helps! The good news is, there are hikes available for any fitness level! So you don't need to be in great shape to enjoy a leisurely stroll on one of the park's many paths.
The most popular site in the park, Crno Jezero or Black Lake, is perfect for anyone, which is why you will often find families with everyone from infants to grandparents, out enjoying the lake. There is a 3.5km path loop around the big and little glacier lakes making up Black Lake, with benches throughout if you are in need of a break or just want to take in the views. There is even a café on-site and many picnic areas along the lake.
If you are looking for a longer walk, the Black Lake path connects with other park trails, allowing you to continue exploring the park's numerous "mountain eyes", such as close by Zminje or Barno Lakes, and take in the fresh pine trails and mountain views.
Avid hikers and adventure seekers will enjoy the numerous hikes to the top of Durmitor's peaks. Hiking to the top of Bobotov Kuk, the tallest of the massif's peaks at just over 2,500 meters (8,200 ft), is one of the most popular routes for a hard but rewarding climb to what feels like the top of the Balkans. You can read more about Bobotov Kuk in my post: Hiking to the Top of Montenegro.
If the weather is not cooperating for summitting Bobotov Kuk, or you are looking for more great hikes, a trek to the Ice Cave is another popular choice for hikers.
Raft the Tara River: When you take Europe's deepest gorge and add one of the most clear, drinkable rivers in the world - you are left with an incredible gorgeous day rafting the Tara River. Many companies offer half and full day rafting trips down the stunning river, the will leave you basking in the beauty of your surroundings at all time. Rafting is an easy day trip from Žabljak, or you can stay at camps along the river.
The best time to raft is in May and June when the water is fastest, but even then, the rafting itself isn't too treacherous rapids wise. Going in July and August may not be the most intense whitewater rafting you've done, but the views are like nowhere else - and completely worth the adventure. A super fun day for anyone!
Zipline across Tara Canyon: Get your adrenaline pumping with a short zipline across Tara Canyon. Fun for children and adults alike, head 23 kilometers outside of Žabljak to the Djurdjevica Tara Bridge (where you should go anyways just to take in the views!) and enjoy a 350m zipline across the canyon from 170m above the river. Red Rock Zipline runs the zipline from May to October. It costs €10 per person, with group discounts available. No booking needed in advance - just show up!
Go Canyoning: Located 25km outside of Žabljak, Nevidio Canyon is a popular place to spend a day of adventure canyoning. I sadly ran out of time to do this myself, but have loved canyoning in the past and would love to go back and try. You can book through Nevido Canyoning or in town at any activity center.
Mountain Bike: The many paths surrounding Black Lake and the park are also perfect trails to get some speed mountain biking. Many places throughout town offer bike rentals, or you can book guided tours. If you don't like off-roading, many accommodations or activity centers offer bicycles rentals as well. A long ride to Djurdjevica Tara Bridge is a great way to see the canyon and also enjoy an active ride.
Enjoy Water Sports: Jump in to one of the many glacier lakes in the park for a refreshing chilly swim! Kayaks and canoes are available on larger lakes such as Black Lake and Vrazje Jerzo, Devils Lake, which is located a few miles outside Žabljak.
Visiting in Winter? Skiing and snowboarding, plus other winter activities, take over all winter long! It may not be the French or Swiss Alps, but if you are in the area over winter, I'm sure the ski resorts will hit the spot and still provide the picturesque mountain views. Due to the accumulation of snow in the area, summer activities are really only available from April - September.
Where To Stay
For backpackers and budget travelers, Žabljak is home to many great options. The one you will hear most about on the Balkan Backpacking trail though is the infamous Hostel Hikers Den - and I promise it lives up to its hype. The owners, brothers Alex and Stefan, are not only two of the most fascinating people I have ever met, but most knowledgeable of the area and tons of fun. They have built an outstanding community feel at Hikers Den, often offering free BBQ dinners, arranging activity groups for solo travelers, and of course on hand to provide a shot of Rakija to warm you up. They will help arrange anything you need for your visit from planning out hikes, arranging transport and setting up activities - even letting you borrow hiking boots! Book here for Hostel Hikers Den, nightly rates start at €15.
Unfortunately the lack of mass tourism, which brings the quaintness to Žabljak, also means there are not any 5-star luxury accommodations yet. However, with so much to do in the park, the many cozy hotels and B&Bs in the area make the perfect place to rest your legs and grab some good sleep.
Hotel Soa is known as the nicest option in town, with rooms starting at ~$70.
MB Hotel is also a popular hotel choice, with single rooms starting at ~$30.
No matter what you are looking for, you won't find a shortage of hotels, B&Bs, hostels and camping sites, in and around Žabljak. The smaller village of Pitomine, a few minutes walk outside of Žabljak, has extraordinary mountain views, if you are looking for an even quieter escape!
How Long Do I Need?
There is plenty to do in Durmitor National Park to fill your days, but sadly usually the problem is not enough time rather than figuring out what to do.
Strapped for time myself, I spent 3 full days and 2 nights in Žabljak, and although I wish I could have stayed another day or two, I thankfully at least left with the fulfilled feeling of getting a great taste of the park.
I divided my time there the following way for one incredible vist:
Day 1: Hike around Black Lake and to several other 'eyes', explore Žabljak
Day 2: Full day whitewater rafting on the Tara River
Day 3: Hike up Bobotuv Kuk (back in time to make a direct bus to Kotor!)
Want help planning your own Durmitor National Park adventure? Contact Wanderful Journeys today to start planning your ultimate Durmitor getaway! We can help with itinerary design, hotel and activity bookings, transportation - you name it!
Have you been to Durmitor? What were your favorite spots?! Do you have any other recommendations? Let us know in the comments!
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